INTERVIEW

Pierre Hermé: infinitely gourmet

By Monique Delanoue-Paynot

He elegantly carries flavors and creations around the world. Celebrated from Paris to Tokyo, passing through London, Hong Kong, and Marrakech, there are dozens of Pierre Hermé boutiques all over the world! Meet a great traveler, a man of taste.

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé is a gifted creator. His path? “Pleasure as the only guide,” declares the inventor of his own universe of tastes, sensations, and pleasures. Recognized, admired, and a regular guest on major gastronomy shows, he is the one who laid the foundations of contemporary haute pâtisserie by creating classics such as the famous Ispahan. Imitated but never equaled! Driven by an extraordinary desire to learn and discover, the heir to four generations of Alsatian bakers and pastry chefs built his career from the moment he arrived in Paris at the age of 14. Curious and deeply gourmet, the future pastry chef cultivated his absolute taste by working with masters in the field, such as Lenôtre and Fauchon, before founding Maison Pierre Hermé Paris in 1997. The beginning of the journey and the success story. Never satisfied, the multi-talented man regularly flies to the four corners of the globe in search of the best coffees, chocolates, and vanillas. From travels to encounters, from exceptional producers to passionate artists, from cities to countries and continents, there perpetuates an ever-renewed desire to savor life to the fullest. With fervor and jubilation: “From the rarest vanillas to the most inaccessible coffee plants, from the richest cocoa beans to the most flavorful citrus fruits, my profession has given me the chance to satisfy my insatiable curiosity for flavors, people, and life.” Thank you, Pierre Hermé, for delighting our taste buds and enchanting our gourmet celebrations.

Interview

“I travel six to seven days a month,” you say… By desire or constraint?

It’s never a constraint! I travel a lot for my job, but also to discover cities and contemporary art sites. I take pleasure in rediscovering Japan, where I have been going very often for years, both for work and for culture. After more than 80 trips to this country and the establishment of about thirty boutiques, I still feel like I don’t know it. My passion for travel is linked to the discovery of a city, a country, a continent. I love seeing New York, Mauritius, and all the metropolises of Europe: Barcelona, Madrid, Vienna, Milan, Rome, Berlin, Amsterdam, Brussels, London… Destinations I appreciate because I am curious and open to discovery, again and again. My last trip to Iceland fascinated me.

Are you a gourmet traveler by nature?

No! When I arrive in a country, everything interests me. But I do love seeing street markets, supermarkets, local food: wine, groceries, deli meats, fishmongers. And, of course, pastry shops and chocolatiers. If I see something that resembles one of these, I cross the street. Sweet or savory, it’s the entire gastronomic culture of the country that captures my attention.

Do you travel light?

Never! [laughs] I don’t know how to travel without checked luggage, and I’m amazed by my friends who do it so well. Since I buy various food items, sometimes solid, sometimes liquid, and bring products I’ve made to offer to my hosts: macarons, chocolates, cakes, orangettes, mendiants, panettone, Easter eggs and doves, depending on the season, the luggage problem arises both on the way there and back.

Are you considered a man sensitive to fashion and accessories?

Not to fashion itself. Sensitive to beautiful materials, yes! Fine fabrics, cashmere. For years, I have remained loyal to the brands I wear: pants by Italian designer Jacob Cohën, contemporary elegant clothing by Loro Piana, and shoes by Pierre Corthay, whose lovely boutique is behind the Park Hyatt on Rue Volney in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris. My colors? I favor navy blue and black as a base. Then, burgundy, brown, green… And in summer, I switch to light colors: mainly white. I almost only wear white shirts.

Do you like watches, jewelry, and perfumes?

I love watches, particularly those by Blancpain, the oldest watch brand in the world, founded in 1735 in the Swiss Jura. Regarding perfumes, I have created some for L’Occitane under the brand “Pierre Hermé Occitane 86,” and I wear one of those I composed: “Bois de Cèdre-Cédrat.” In the warmer months, I quite like “Eau Dynamisante” by Clarins and “Concentré de Pamplemousse Rose” by Hermès, which inspired me to create a macaron from this citrus, clove, and nutmeg.

Is luxury a priority for you?

It’s a constant source of inspiration. The world of luxury interests me in all its forms. When I founded my company a few years ago, I created a luxury brand in the field of pastry under the label “Haute Pâtisserie,” ensuring coherence and artistic direction, which combines this approach in product creation, boutique architecture, packaging, and customer experience.

Regarding lifestyle, does the creative artist enjoy fine hotels, and which ones appeal to you?

I love La Mamounia in Marrakech! For me, one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. The recent decoration by the duo Jouin Manku, balancing heritage and modernity, is sumptuous. Without any particular preference, I enjoy discovering new and luxurious hotels. The latest? The Bulgari Hotel in Paris, absolutely magnificent. I admired the chic modern layout, the signed furniture, and the excellent service quality over a weekend. The spirit of the Italian jewelry brand is evident thanks to interior designer Antonio Citterio, who created an elegant environment worthy of Bulgari’s design.

When traveling the world, what do you retain of your roots, specifically Alsace?

A reference point and my region of origin.

ispahan
tarte vanille
cerise sur le gâteau

L’Ispahan – Tarte Infiniment Vanille – La cerise sur le gâteau

Maison Pierre Hermé Paris offers its creations on the online store www.pierre-herme.com.

“The king of macarons,” is it reductive to define you this way?

No, because it’s what people know best about my work. Even though my work encompasses pastry, chocolate, ice cream, and viennoiserie as well. The macaron is a domain I have evolved over time. In the 1970s, there were only four flavors: chocolate, vanilla, coffee, and raspberry. Period! I have brought it into a universe where flavors have multiplied, and there are now more than a thousand signature combinations in La Maison. I should add that the macarons with white truffle, black truffle, caviar, or foie gras, which I pioneered, remain sweet pastry bites.

You are renowned for your macarons with surprising combinations: asparagus-walnut oil, peas-mint… Where does your inspiration come from?

Always from my gourmet curiosity about everything that is eaten, seen, and heard. The combinations of black garlic and balsamic vinegar, saffron and licorice, chocolate and dried nori seaweed used in makis are absolutely delicious! My macaron “Infiniment Citron Noir” results from a tradition from the Middle East where lemons are boiled before being dried in the sun. This creates a deep and robust aroma without acidity. My sources of inspiration are varied, coming from conversations, images, readings, and travels.

You even draw your own creations! To better define the flavors?

I imagine in my head and put it on paper, yes, it’s important. Drawings allow us to conduct trials and build the architecture of taste before implementing the ideas. Currently, I am working and drawing on the theme of the mineral universe for the creation of the next “Exceptional Christmas Cake,” which you will discover during the holiday season. [laughs]

Being at the head of an empire today, is it a source of pride?

My initial idea was not to create a company, let alone an empire, but a luxury brand in the field of pastry. I am very happy and proud to have succeeded. And it is what I continue to do today out of a love for the challenge.

Having achieved everything, what does the future hold for Pierre Hermé? What are your projects?

My current project in Paris is the opening of my first boutique, “Infiniment Chocolat,” on Boulevard des Capucines, entirely dedicated to cocoa. No macarons, no cakes! Only exclusive and temporary creations. My projects for 2024-2025? Numerous openings abroad: Taiwan, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Singapore. In France, a corner at Nice airport. And, closer to Paris, the opening in Versailles of the Hôtel des Lumières, a prestigious 5-star hotel overlooking the Place d’Armes and the Royal Courtyard of the Sun King’s castle, where we will accompany the savory and sweet menu.

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